Change or rekey · Oxford Park
Lock Replacement & Upgrade in Oxford Park
The house is fifteen years old and every exterior door still wears the light hardware the builder fitted: a short bolt, a thin strike held by two small screws, and a knob lock that never suited a street entrance.
In plain words
A replacement lock has to fit holes that already exist, and that is where the visit begins. The locksmith measures the backset, the distance from the door edge to the centre of the bore, which on most doors is 60 or 70 millimetres, checks the cross-bore diameter and edge-bore size, notes door thickness and handing, and looks at the strike cut-out. Most residential hardware is made to these standard preparations, so the new lock usually drops into place with no new drilling. Where a mortise lock or a thick door departs from the norm, filler plates, extension kits or a careful new bore bring the door up to standard.
How the visit goesThe keys the seller handed over came in a sandwich bag: six unlabelled copies for two locks of different makes from different decades. You have no idea how many more copies exist or who is holding them.
Lock Replacement & Upgrade
How the visit goes
How the old lock behaves in use
The locksmith works the existing hardware the way you do every day and watches for the tell-tale signs. A key that must be lifted or wiggled points to worn pins or a worn key. A knob that turns too far, or a lever that droops, suggests a tired spindle or spring. A latch that stays retracted, or a bolt that stops short, can be internal wear or something outside the lock altogether. Doing this with the door open first, then closed, separates faults inside the mechanism from faults in the fit of the door, and that distinction decides whether new hardware is the answer or part of the answer.
Taking the old hardware off without harm
Removal is done with the same care as fitting. Interior trim screws come out first, then the interior rose or thumb-turn, and the exterior housing lifts away with its tailpiece. The latch or bolt slides out of the edge bore once its two faceplate screws are released, and the old strike comes off the jamb. Painted-over screws are scored free rather than forced, seized screws are eased with a hand driver of the right size, and a stripped head is drilled out only as a last step. The bore and edge mortise are then cleaned of paint build-up and debris so the new parts seat properly.
Simple habits that keep new hardware new
New locks ask very little. Once or twice a year, or at whatever interval the lock maker specifies, a puff of the lubricant that maker calls for in the keyway and a few turns of the key keep the pins moving freely, since the wrong product for that cylinder gathers grit instead of helping it. In winter, wipe salt spray off the exterior hardware when it appears, since salt is the finish's main enemy here. Each spring and fall, check that the hinge and strike screws are snug, because wood doors move with humidity and a dropped door makes a good lock feel worn. A key that starts to need coaxing is an early word from the cylinder.
Lock Replacement & Upgrade
In the van
75 millimetre strike and hinge screws
Knob or lever entry set
Cylinders, plug follower and pinning kit
Reinforced strike plate and strike box
Adjustable latch or bolt
Lock Replacement & Upgrade
What affects the quote
Grade of hardware
A light Grade 3 knob set, a residential deadbolt with a strong label rating and a Grade 1 commercial-style deadbolt are different products at different levels, and the quote follows the grade you choose for each door.
Finish and style
Standard satin nickel or brass is one line; specialty finishes, matched suites across several doors and designer handlesets are others. The finish you choose for exposure and looks is priced as the maker prices it.
Number of doors
One back door is a small visit; the front, back, side, garage man-door and patio slider together are a longer one, though several doors done at once share the travel and setup.
What to have ready
- Do you want every exterior door to open with one key?
- Which finish should the new hardware match?
- Is the door wood, steel or fibreglass, and roughly how thick is it?
Lock Replacement & Upgrade: questions
QuestionsShould I rekey my locks or replace them?
Rekey when the hardware is sound and the problem is the key: a lost copy, a move, or too many keys for one house. Replace when the mechanism itself is worn, the housing or bolt is damaged, the grade was never suitable for the entrance, or you want a different function, finish or a keypad. Many visits do both, keeping good locks and rekeying them while replacing the tired ones, all to one key.
What happens to the old lock?
It is yours. Some people keep a sound old cylinder as a spare or move a decent deadbolt to a shed or garage door, and the locksmith can rekey it to the house key for that purpose. Worn or damaged hardware is taken away for recycling if you prefer. Either way, the old keys should be gathered up and discarded so nobody confuses them with the new set.
Can the same visit replace locks on more than one door, or does each door need its own appointment?
One visit usually covers every door on the job. The locksmith brings a range of cylinders and strikes, measures each door's backset and bore, and works through the list in order, front entrance first if a key change matters most there. Having a rough list ready, which doors, and whether they should end up on one key or several, lets the locksmith plan hardware before arriving rather than working it out door by door on site.
Related services
- Deadbolt InstallationThe old deadbolt has grown lazy.
- Vintage Mortise Lock ServiceThe old skeleton key still fits the keyhole, but it now needs a jiggle, a lean on the door and a little luck before the bolt moves.
- Smart Lock InstallationThe deadbolt is a stiff double-cylinder model that needs a key from both sides, and in the dark hallway finding it is a nuisance.