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Person holding the black deadbolt and doorknob of a partly open blue front door. — Deadbolt Installation, Byron
Hands holding a lock cylinder and a ring of keys above a worn workbench with another cylinder and loose keys. — Lock Rekeying, Byron

Change or rekey · Byron

Deadbolt Installation in Byron

The old deadbolt has grown lazy.

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In plain words

A deadbolt installation is also the moment to sort out keys. The new cylinder can be pinned to match the key you already use, so the household stays on one key, or set to a fresh key if you would rather retire whatever copies are in circulation. Many keypad and smart deadbolts fit the same standard bore as a mechanical one, so a door prepared today for a keyed bolt often accepts one later, though the exact model's bore and thickness still need checking. Either way you leave with keys that work in every door they are meant to, tested one by one.

Sound familiar?

The bolt on the front door is keyed on both sides. Getting out at night means finding the key in the dark, and with a toddler in the house you have decided the inside should turn by hand. You want it done properly, not just swapped.

How the visit goes

Deadbolt Installation

How the visit goes

Hands holding a disassembled steel knob at the latch edge of a white door beside a deadbolt and an open tool bag. — Byron
Technician holding a steel deadbolt to the round bore in a white door, with an open tool bag on a dark mat. — Byron
  1. Where the bolt should sit on the door

    On a door with no deadbolt yet, its height is not fixed by the manufacturer but by the door in front of you. The usual spot is 140 to 150 mm above the centre of the knob, which places the bolt near the strongest part of the lock stile and keeps both locks within one comfortable reach. The locksmith checks that this height misses any glass, decorative panel, hinge line or the wood block inside an insulated door, and that the frame behind that spot is solid rather than a gap between shims. If a storm door or screen door shares the opening, the bolt's thumb-turn and cylinder have to clear it as well.

  2. Testing open, then closed, then keyed alike

    The finished lock is proved in three stages. With the door open, the thumb-turn and then the key are cycled several times to confirm the bolt throws fully and returns freely. With the door closed, the same tests show whether the bolt clears the strike opening and seats in the pocket; any drag is marked with chalk and the strike is dressed or shifted until the bolt moves with fingertip effort. If the cylinder is being keyed to the household key, it is repinned on the bench and tested from outside with the door closed, and every key that should work is tried before the tools go back in the van.

  3. Ready for a smart lock later

    Because the door was prepared to the standard bore and backset, it suits many future options, though the model chosen later still sets its own bore, backset and thickness requirements. Keypad and app-controlled deadbolts fit the same 54 mm cross bore and the same edge bore as the mechanical lock fitted today, so upgrading later means swapping the hardware, not cutting the door again. The backset and bore measurements are written on the packaging left with you. If you want to think about a keypad down the road, ask the locksmith which models suit the door thickness and whether a backup keyed cylinder is worth having for the one day the batteries are flat.

Deadbolt Installation

In the van

  • Boring jig and 54 mm hole saw

  • Jamb reinforcer

  • Strike box

  • 75 mm (3 in) strike screws

  • 25 mm auger bit

Technician in black gloves holding a screwdriver at the knob lockset of an open dark door, with a tool bag nearby. — Byron

Deadbolt Installation

What affects the quote

  1. Hardware supplied by you or by the locksmith

    If you have already bought the lock, the quote covers labour and any adaptation of the door to that kit. Hardware supplied from the van is listed separately with its grade and finish.

  2. Travel to the property

    Distance and access are part of any call-out: a house on a suburban street and a rural property down a long road involve different driving time, and the quote says so.

  3. Finish and trim style

    Coated finishes built for salt and sun, matching trim for an existing handleset, and low-profile faces cost differently from a standard brass or nickel unit, and you choose the level.

What to have ready

  • Is the door solid wood, steel-clad or fibreglass, and roughly how thick is it?
  • Does the door have to be pulled or lifted before it latches or locks at the moment?
  • Is there a storm door or screen door in the same opening?
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Deadbolt Installation: questions

Questions
I just moved in. Should the new deadbolt be keyed to a new key?

It is a good moment for it. Nobody knows how many copies of a previous owner's key exist, so pinning the new bolt, and the rest of the exterior doors, to one fresh key retires all of them at once. Lock manufacturers list a move as one of the main reasons to rekey. You come away with a known number of keys, each tested in every door it is meant to open.

How do I look after a deadbolt once it is installed?

Very little is needed. Each spring and autumn, lock the door from inside and feel whether the bolt still goes home without the door being pulled; if it hesitates, the door has moved with the season and a small strike adjustment restores it. Whatever lubricant the lock's own maker specifies keeps it smooth, often a dry PTFE or graphite type in the keyway and along the bolt, though some cylinders are meant to be serviced with oil. In winter, wipe road salt off the outside trim to protect the finish.

What do backset and bore mean, and why does the locksmith ask?

Two measurements decide whether a deadbolt fits your door. Bore is the diameter of the big hole through the face, 54 mm on most current hardware. Backset is how far the centre of that hole sits from the door's edge, 60 mm or 70 mm on nearly all residential doors. A replacement must match both to use the existing holes, and a fresh installation is cut to match the knob below, so knowing them ahead puts the right hardware on the van.

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